Bilbao: Chasing the Guggenheim
Not a city many would rank amongst Spain’s greats; a Barcelona or Madrid it is not and barring those of you whom are not architecture geeks I would happily wager you’re completely unaware of its existence. Hell, the Spanish news doesn’t even include it in it’s list of forecasted cities so who am I to expect you to have heard about it.
That said, it’s not a small place by any means, the population pushes upwards of 350,000 and hosts what is deemed to be one of Spain’s best universities, Duesto. Remnants of Bilbao’s shipping history line the central river, which acts as a natural division between the city’s historic hillside and its newly formed modern life.
The city’s division is personified by it’s uncontested crown jewel, the Gehry designed, Guggenheim museum which takes prize position upon the river’s banks in an almost directly opposite position to the original town hall.

Lonely Planet intro aside there is but one reason for someone to visit Bilbao and in case you hadn’t guessed already it’s for the giant-fuck-off-metal-distortion that is Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim. Old Gehry is one of my favourite architects and his work is admired by around the world. The last piece of his I visited was the Toronto art museum which opened whilst I was living there a couple of years ago and for anyone even remotely interested I highly suggest you watch one of Sidney Pollack’s last pieces of work, “Sketches of Frank Gehry”, a documentary of Gehry’s work.
There was another reason, beyond man-love, for me to see the Guggenheim; which is that simply I’ve never seen one… well not properly anyway. Each time (and it’s been three now) that I have been to visit the Lloyd Wright designed Guggenheim in New York I’ve been greeted with no more than a scaffolding clad structure obscuring any chance of appreciating it’s external facade first hand.
So what if it meant an hour long flight to the complete opposite side of Spain that I had flown in to, to a place most people had never heard of, I was doing it (and I’d checked there was no scaffolding on this one).
Excluding a hail ridden thunder storm and hideous grey skies that consistently haunted each photograph this Guggenheim reconnaissance mission was a success. I suppose. I could have sat and stared at the building for hours (should the weather have allowed it), its contents and exhibiting pieces bored me to tears, mostly, but I got what I came for.
As for Bilbao, well if you Google “things to do in Bilbao” every list I came across basically had the museum at number one and then quickly turned in to a random list of bars and cafes. It has a nice shopping mall that seems nice but never has anyone in it and they’re building a giant sky-scraper that sticks out a bit.
Yeah. Unless you’re an architecture or art buff I can’t recommend this one, but if I was ever nearby again I’d be back to Bilbao in a heart beat.







November 19th, 2010 at 5:22 am
What an offensive post! You surely don’t quite know (title of your blog) anything about Bilbao and you surely didn’t give a damn to know if Bilbao offers more than the museum. The truth, the ugly truth, is that this city has a lot to offer: the museum of fine arts rank 2nd in Spain after el prado, the architecture of the old part of town has been declared monumental area by the Basque gvt, the town hall, which isn’t on the opposite side of the guggenheim (see why u didn’t even give a damn to get to know the city?) Has an Arab salon envied all over the country, the newest project, la alhondiga revolutioned the way people spend their free time with the combination of a sport center, movie theater, an atrium, a library, restaurants and bars, all built in a restored wine store.
Next time before you go somewhere learn somethin about that place.
Thu
This was the ypical post of an ignorant person…
November 19th, 2010 at 6:29 am
@leire My apologies if the post has in some way offended you, which it would appear quite obviously it has.
I think you’ve misread it though. I quite enjoyed Bilbao, I even stated I’d go back should I be near Europe/Spain ever again. The post has far more to do with the admiration I have for Gehry and *my* reasons for visiting Bilbao.
I do agree the town hall is not “directly” opposite and can be found further away. It was meant as a metaphor between old & new and the beauty between the 2 buildings. Hence the use of “almost”.
Finally, may I suggest you contact your local tourism office as I stated the web contained almost none of the sites you mentioned. Travel websites I consulted were very sparse on information. Even the hotel staff I asked gave me the Guggenheim as their main answer and made no mention of the “la alhondiga” nor the museum of fine arts. For those websites that do mention them (and yes I’ve found ones that do) these things are of no interest to *me* personally.
Once again apologies for any offence caused. This site & posts are parody opinion pieces do not take them to heart.
November 19th, 2010 at 12:03 pm
Love the haunted sky and texture of the river in the photo. The subject of it speaks for itself. I’ve heard of Bilbao, and too would totally fly out of my way to go there. It probably would be quite hard to get to know a town if you’re on a side trip like that though.
PS. la alhondiga sounds like a mall. Did you get spammed by the la alhondiga Mall Society?
November 21st, 2010 at 11:51 am
@Wida Cheers big fella. I think I have about 50 odd photos from around and inside it. Pretty amazing place.
No idea if it was the Mall Society but if I ever get back there I’m thinking of an Arab salon day :)